Thirty-seven minutes later we confirmed our groundspeed and our track with a positive fix over the mighty Darling River. Even in this age of GPS, I still plot 10-mile markers on my WAC chart and note time intervals (4 minutes in FJF) to help navigation - particularly over isolated country.

Twenty minutes later we could make out our destination airfield amidst the distinctive “lunar like landscape” of white mounds and craters that mark the outback opal-mining town of White Cliffs.

While overflying the field to check for wind direction, we also made a careful scan for kangaroos. After shutting down, to our surprise we opened the door to a Golden Labrador who had climbed aboard the wing to greet us. We subsequently learned that she was no stranger to flying and was excited at the prospect of joining John, one of the locals, on a trip away to Norwood Station (another great destination). We watched as she climbed aboard John’s Gulfstream and eagerly settled into the back seat, completely at home.

After tying down the aircraft, we made our way to a car that had been left at the airport by the hotel for our use during our stay. As we headed off along the dusty road into town, I caught some strange looks from the family as they gazed at the barren landscape. Why had we come here – there was nothing to be seen - not even any houses. Apart from the general store, hotel, post office, school and a couple of other shacks, almost all of 350 White Cliffs inhabitants live underground in homes converted from disused opal mines or burrowed into the surrounding hills.

Naturally, our visit would not be complete without some “retail therapy” provided by some of the exquisite local opal show rooms

As we made a climbing turn onto our westerly heading, the “ants nest” landscape of white mounds and craters below were somehow less alien than when we arrived.

Our next destination was Arkaroola, which lay a short 80 minutes to the west over even more barren land. The vermin proof fence cut into the Strzelecki Desert clearly marked the NSW-SA boarder below.  The ride for the entire flight was so smooth - it was like skating on ice. There was no sign of the thermals normally generated by the contrasting expanse of white salt of Lake Frome stretched out below.

Looking ahead, the North Flinders Ranges rose abruptly out of the desert

The 03/21 shale strip is 650m long. The wind was across the strip, so I decided to use 03, which is up hill. It is advisable to make a right circuit into 03 to remain clear of higher ground to the west. Also, be ready for wind shear as you cross over a dry creek bed immediately before the threshold.

The ranger met us with a friendly smile, and helped push FJF back into the hangar. In no time we were on our way to the Arkaroola lodge, slowing to watch an “old man” Emu with six of his almost fully-grown off spring. The ranger explained that after laying the eggs, the female leaves the job of hatching and rearing to the male. Apparently the producing and laying of the eggs takes so much out of the mother that she needs the rest

Also worth a visit is Woodsy’s Rock Shop. This unique place has an amazing display of precious stones and jewellery collected from around Australia.  If you did not get enough underground experience in White Cliffs, there is even an artificial cave.

A garden maze is guaranteed to keep you wandering in circles indefinitely.

If you have “12 hrs between bottle and throttle”, go visit the longest bar in the world at the Working Mans Club.

The local gliding club is also very active on weekends if you are looking for a quieter way to see the surrounding area.